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Tiwanaku
Tiwanaku

From La Paz we head north-west, spending the night beside the ruins of Tiwanaku, a pre-Inca civilisation who lived by the shores of Lake Titicaca. It’s still high here (3,800 metres) and cold at night, and our water pipes freeze yet again. The following day we cross the border back into Peru and coast along the western side of Lake Titicaca.

DE LA PAZ, NOUS PARTONS VERS LE NORD-OUEST POU VISITER LE SITE PRE-INCA DE LA CIVILISATION TIWANAKU.  NOUS Y PASSONS UNE NUIT GLACIALE A 3800m ET LA TUYAUTERIE CONGELE DE NOUVEAU.  LE LENDEMAIN, NOUS PASSONS PAR UNE AUTRE  FRONTIERE POUR LE PEROU, LE LONG DU LAC TITICACA.

Lake Titicaca and the Cordilleras Real
Lake Titicaca and the Cordilleras Real
A shepherdess beside Lake Titicaca
A shepherdess beside Lake Titicaca

From Juliaca, following the old Inca route between Lake Titicaca and Cuzco, we slowly descend into the Sacred Valley. At dusk we pull off the main road and find our way to the plaza in the village of Andahuaylillas.

DE JULIACA, NOUS SUIVONS LA ROUTE INCA DU LAC VERS CUZCO, ET DESCENDONS DANS LA VALLEE SACREE.  EN FIN DE JOURNEE, NOUS NOUS ARRETONS DANS LE VILLAGE DE ANDAHUAYLILLAS ET BIVOUAQUONS SUR LA PLACE TRANQUILLE DU VILLAGE.

Our bivouac in the plaza of Andahuaylillas
Our bivouac in the plaza of Andahuaylillas

In Andahuaylillas there is a seventeenth century Jesuit church in which we go for a wander. Low and behold, inside we find the choir of the Montmartre Abbey, Paris warming up for their evening performance. The conductor was an Argentinian who had been arrested and jailed by the junta in the 1970s. He managed to get himself released and fled to France.  There were few other Europeans in the church, but the villagers turned out in force.

NOUS VOULIONS Y VISITER L’EGLISE JESUITE DATANT DU 17ieme S, SURNOMMEE LA CHAPELLE SIXTINE DES AMERIQUES,  PEINTE SUR TOUTES SES SURFACES INTERIEURES ET EXTERIEURES, ET QUE DE DORURES!  NOUS NOUS ETONNONS QU’ELLE SOIT OUVERTE TARD MAIS IL SE TROUVE QUE LE CHOEUR DE L’ABBAYE DE MONTMARTRE Y JOUE UN CONCERT LE SOIR MEME, QUELLE VEINE. IL Y A PEU DE TOURISTES MAIS LES VILLAGEOIS ARRIVENT EN MASSE.  NOUS PROFITONS DU POT DE L’AMITIE SUR LE PARVIS. BISCUITS SECS, PAS DE PETIT VERRE DE VIN BLANC CEPENDANT MAIS LA BOISSON CHAUDE  FAMILIALE A BASE DE FARINES DE CEREALES ANDINES: QUINOA, MACA ET KIWICHA.  NOUS N’AVONS QUE QUELQUES METRES A FAIRE POUR ALLER DORMIR!

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After a peaceful night in the plaza we snapped a few photos in the early morning, before the arrival of the tourist buses.

NUIT PAISIBLE, NOUS SOMMES SEULS LE MATIN POUR LES PHOTOS, AVANT ‘ARRIVEE DES CARS DE TOURISTES.

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