RUTA DEL CHE

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Che Guevara came to Bolivia in the late 1960s to spread his brand of social revolution. He arrived in La Paz in disguise – all he needed to do was shed the beret and shave off his straggly beard and – hey presto – nobody recognised him. He headed for the foothills of the eastern Andes to stir his mischief…and come to a sticky end. So we went to investigate.

APRES LE SUCCES CUBAIN AUX COTES DES FRERES CASTRO, ERNESTO GUEVARA CONTINUE SA ROUTE ET SA MISSION,  ARRIVE EN BOLIVIE A LA FIN DES ANNEES 60 POUR CONVAINCRE LES PAYSANS DE SE SOULEVER CONTRE LE SYSTEME ET, CECI ETANT FAIT,  D’Y INSTALLER SON CAMP DE BASE POUR ETENDRE LA REVOLUTION AU PAYS VOISINS. IL VA ERRER DES MOIS DURANT AVEC UNE PETITE EQUIPE DE GUERILLEROS ENTRE SAMAIPATA ET LA HIGUERA…..NOUS PARTONS SUR SES TRACES.

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The route is a very twist-turny, up and down thing, and so it took some time. To do ninety kilometres required 3 hours. We crossed one other car. The scenery is great.

90 KMS, 3H DE ROUTE, CA MONTE, DESCEND ET TOURNE. PAYSAGES MAGNIFIQUES. NOUS TRAVERSONS LE RIO GRANDE. SI NOUS ETIONS EN ARGENTINE, IL Y AURAIT 100 BBQ SUR CHAQUE PLAGE ET 1000 PERSONNES DANS L’EAU POUR PECHER ET BATIFOLER.  MAIS ICI, PERSONNE, ET NOUS REGRETTONS DE NE PAS AVOIR ACCES AU FLEUVE.

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We followed the signs (there are not many of them) to Oro. Oro…umh, that must be some wealthy gold prospecting town, we’re thinking. Maybe we’ll hang out there a day or two. Sadly, as you can see from the photo below, Oro is passed it best.

LA CARTE NOUS INDIQUE QUE NOUS ALLONS PASSER PAR LE VILLAGE DE ORO.  NOUS ESPERONS TROUVER UNE MINE D’OR EN FONCTIONNEMENT ET DE LA  VISITER. ET BIEN, C’EST RATE…..

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When Che was captured by the Bolivian army he was brought to La Higuera, a remote village in the hills. He was locked in the schoolhouse whilst they decided what to do. Within twenty-four hours a radio message was received that somebody’s gun should accidently fire in the direction of Che – several times, just for good measure – and then they should mislay his corpse in a deep hole, which nobody should remember digging. It was typical CIA-inspired stuff. And then Che became even more famous and no amount of burying was going to hide his image.

CHE ET SES ACCOLYTES PASSENT DES MOIS CACHES DANS LES MONTAGNES, POURCHASSES PAR L’ARMEE BOLIVIENNE.  ILS NE PARVIENNENT PAS A FAIRE PASSER LEUR MESSAGE REVOLUTIONNAIRE EN BOLIVIE.  PIRE, SA TETE EST MISE A PRIX.  UN PAYSAN LES DENONCERA.  L’ARMEE LE TRAINE JUSQU’A LA PETITE ECOLE DE LA HIGUERA.  24 H PLUS TARD, L’ORDRE EST DONNE DE L’ABATTRE, LUI ET 3 DE SES COMPAGNONS, PUIS D’OUBLIER LA OU LES CORPS SONT ENTERRES.  LA RUMEUR DIT QUE L’ORDRE FUT DONNE PAR LA CIA……. IL FAUDRA ATTENDRE DES ANNEES LES CONFESSIONS ALCOOLISEES D’UN VIEUX SOLDAT POUR LOCALISER LES TOMBES , CE QUI A PERMIS D’EXHUMER SON CORPS ET DE L’ENTERRER A CUBA.   

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In the photo below Christine is standing before the old school house where Che was held and then shot. It is now a museum and shrine.

MAIS VOILA, UNE LEGENDE ETAIT NEE. JE ME TROUVE DEVANT L’ANCIENNE ECOLE OU CHE FUT RETENU PRISONNIER ET ASSASSINE, DEVENUE MUSEE ET LIEU DE PELERINAGE POUR SES FANS.  LA NOUVELLE ECOLE EST PLUS GRANDE ET DANS LA MEME RUE. ELLE SERT AUSSI DE CENTRE MEDICAL, LORSQU’IL Y A UN MEDECIN DANS LES PARAGES, ET D’HOTEL COMMUNAL.  IL N’Y AVAIT NI EQUIPE MEDICALE, NI CLIENTS MAIS DES COCHONS…..COMMUNAUX??

 

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A TRUE SOCIAL REVOLUTION: EVEN THE PIGS ARE ALLOWED AT THE ALOJAMIENTO COMUNAL. CHE WOULD BE PROUD!
A TRUE SOCIAL REVOLUTION: EVEN THE PIGS ARE ALLOWED AT THE COMMUNAL HOSTAL, CHE WOULD BE PROUD!
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